The populations of the species in Lake Malawi:

Placidochromis phenochilus (Trewavas 1935):
- Chesese
- Chirwa Island
- Mdoka

Placidochromis sp. phenochilus tanzania:
- Lupingu
- Makonde

Profile - Placidochromis phenochilus Mdoka White Lips
Size of males: approx. 18-21 cm
Size of females: approx. 14-17 cm

Coloration, differences:
Males and females are almost equally colored, deep blue with deep black-blue stripes.
Males are significantly larger, higher with a steeper forehead.
As juveniles, the sexes are very difficult to distinguish.

Tank size:
from 200 x 60 x 50 cm, larger would always be better!

Diet:
Predatory fish with carnivorous diet, flakes, granules, frozen and live food

Habitat in Lake Malawi:
Transition zone with large individual stones and plenty of free sandy area

Reproduction:
Maternal mouthbrooder

My experiences with Placidochromis phenochilus Mdoka White Lips

Keeping in the aquarium:
Since this species grows quite large and should also be kept in groups, the aquarium must have a minimum size of 200 x 60 x 50 cm; the more animals, the correspondingly larger aquarium.
The tank should be designed as a Malawi transition zone. Larger free sandy areas with large stones placed in between. This suits the feeding habits of this species. The animals are predator fish that swim behind larger species that sieve the sand for food and eat the disturbed food in the sand cloud.

It is best to keep a group of about 3 males / 5 females; this suits the very social animals. A harem setup of 1 male / 3 females is also possible. Always keep an eye on the size of the available aquarium.

Diet in the aquarium:
The fish eat tiny organisms, insects, worms, etc., that are in the sand or are stirred up by the foraging digging fish. Therefore, a carnivorous diet for the animals is necessary. They accept flakes and granule food. Frozen and live food can also be given occasionally.
Caution, the species fattens quickly, which can lead to health problems. Please feed sparingly and with high-quality food (low carbohydrates).

Behavior in the aquarium (my experiences):
The fish, when introduced as juveniles, are very peaceful for a long time and are with their group. However, this species occupies territories during the breeding season, usually larger, flat stones, which they then defend very vigorously. When the males reach sexual maturity and court, they will aggressively confront conspecifics and especially foreign fish, even if they are larger.
The remaining stock should not be very aggressive but should be quite robust.
The fish can change their coloration from almost light blue to dark blue, with deep black-blue stripes. This occurs according to their mood; the dominant male is often deep dark blue with deep black stripes.

Co-habitation in the aquarium:
A stock with larger, robust fish must be chosen in the tank (e.g., non-Mbunas, Malawi predators). Ideally, a large digging fish like Fossochromis rostratus as tank mates would be optimal, which would then require even larger aquariums.
Due to their colors and behavior, they are an eye-catcher even in a suitably designed species tank.

My conclusion:
A very beautiful and also special Malawi non-Mbuna species that, with its beautiful shaded, shiny blue coloration and thick white lips, truly represents a highlight in any aquarium. The fish exhibit impressive, majestic swimming behavior in a larger group. I really like these fish and have been keeping them in my Lake Malawi aquarium for many years now, even though there are occasionally more intense confrontations with clinking cover glasses.

A bit overgrown so you can't see the shrimp and fish, but I still like how overgrown it is like a jungle. I'll let it grow more so it can be even more overgrown for the shrimp and fish; that's the only good thing.

Starting tomorrow, according to the organizers, "the largest European exhibition of parrots, pheasants, ducklings, reptiles, aquarium fish 🐠🐟🦐, and smaller mammals with arrangements of exotic plants and trees" will take place at the exhibition grounds in Lysá nad Labem.

I visited the exhibition last year, where aquarium fish were significantly represented, thanks in part to the Rychnov association Akva-tera, which had a beautiful display at the Exotika 2024 exhibition. Right across from them was a very impressive terrarium display from REPTI PLANET, who will also be at the exhibition this year.

Not only aquarium and terrarium exhibits are worth attention, but also other animals, especially ornamental birds, which are represented in a wide variety, and additionally, the Czech Republic Championship for KPEP scored birds will take place. At the Exotika exhibition, you can of course consult with all the breeders and discuss your questions with them.

I therefore recommend visiting the Exotika exhibition, and I plan to attend it myself this year as well.

Habitat

- Transition zones (or Ecotones) between sand and rock biotopes at depths of 10 to 50 meters.

Characteristics

- Size: The fish reach a maximum length of about 8 to 10 cm.
- Sexual Dimorphism: Males and females are visually difficult to distinguish, with males tending to be slightly more robustly built.

Aquarium Keeping

- Aquarium Size: The species is best kept in a group from which pairs can form. An aquarium with a minimum volume of 300 litres is recommended for keeping a group of 6 to 8 animals. Tank length 150 cm.
- Setup: Substrate of fine, round-edged river sand. A few stones to serve as territorial boundaries.

Diet

- Natural Diet: In the wild, they feed on small crustaceans living in the sand, which they sift out by filtering the sand with their gill rakers.
- Aquarium Food: In the aquarium, the food should be varied and consist of a mixture of small crustaceans, insect larvae (e.g., red mosquito larvae), dwarf shrimp, and Tubifex. Special dry food can also be supplemented.

Breeding and Parental Care

- Xenotilapia papilio is a biparental mouthbrooder, meaning that both parents share the brood care.
- The female lays the eggs on a flat stone, where they are fertilised by the male. The female then takes the eggs into her mouth. After about 11 days, the male takes over all or some of the fry to continue the care. The fish practice mouthbrooding for up to 6 weeks after the initial release of the fry.

With my contribution I would like to provide suggestions for home Artemia cultivation!

Životní prostředí
• Široké rozšíření. Většinu roku se vyskytuje na písčitých dněch v hloubkách 3-40 m, během období rozmnožování v přechodové zóně.

Vlastnosti
• Velikost: Xenotilapia boulengeri dosahuje maximální délky až 20 cm, samice max. 15 cm.
• Vzhled: Ryba má štíhlé, protáhlé a mírně zploštělé tělo. Zbarvení je převážně šedé až hnědošedé. Zvláštním znakem je světle modrá linie podél postranní čáry. Na žaberních víčkách se mohou objevit světle modré, žluté nebo zlaté skvrny. Hřbetní a řitní ploutve často mají modrý nádech a žlutý okraj.
• Pohlavní rozdíly: Dospělí samci jsou větší než samice a mají tmavé okraje na řitních a břišních ploutvích. Během období rozmnožování vykazují také teritoriální chování.
• Postranní čáry: Zvláštností tohoto rodu je, že má tři postranní čáry: jednu na předním těle paralelně k hřbetu, jednu ve středu zadního těla a jednu na ocase.

Životní styl a chování
• Sociální chování: Xenotilapia boulengeri je relativně mírumilovná ryba, která se nejlépe chová ve skupině 8 až 10 jedinců. Během dne se často pohybují ve stádech a prohledávají písek za potravou.
• Rozmnožování: Jedná se o maternální tlamovku. Samci staví až 20 cm vysoké, půlkruhové a na jedné straně otevřené pískové hnízda. Doba rozmnožování trvá přibližně 3 týdny. Samice uvolňuje až 50 relativně malých mladých ryb a dále se o ně nestará.
• Strava: Ryby se živí převážně malými bezobratlými, jako jsou malé krevety a korýši, které filtrují z písku.

Chov v akváriu
• Akvárium: Vzhledem k jejich velikosti a sociální struktuře by mělo mít akvárium minimální délku 150 cm pro malou skupinu 6-8 jedinců.
• Zařízení: Protože ryby prohrabávají písek, je nezbytné mít několikacentimetrovou vrstvu jemného písku jako substrát. Do akvária je dobré umístit jednotlivé kameny jako hranice teritoria.
• Vodní hodnoty: Teplota vody by měla být mezi 23 °C a 26 °C, pH v alkalickém rozmezí mezi 7,5 a 8,5. Karbonátová tvrdost 15-18 °dH.
• Krmění: V akváriu je možné je krmit vhodným živým krmivem (vodní blechy, Cyclops, Artemia), mraženým krmivem, vločkovým krmivem nebo krmivem ve formě tablet.

The DCG (Deutsche Cichliden-Gesellschaft e. V.) warmly welcomes Linda from ForAquarist.com as our first Czech member! Dear Linda, thank you so much for your tremendous commitment.

For the DCG, this is a truly gratifying development and an honor to welcome members from the Czech Republic. We are very much looking forward to welcoming more Czech members. The DCG is ready to further deepen and expand this newly formed Czech partnership.

We look forward to future online get-togethers. It would, of course, be wonderful and highly appreciated if we could inspire Czech speakers to give an online presentation—that would be perfect!

This Wednesday, there will be another online presentation at the DCG Cichlid Roundtable about EU animal welfare law, the status of the Positive List, and related topics. The speaker is Dr. Martin Singheiser (BNA e. V.).

Everyone is cordially invited to attend! As always, subtitles translated into 40 languages will be available.

Links and dates at: https://kalender.digital/Vivaristik-Kalender

Best regards to all Czech aquarists.
DCG i. V. Manfred (PR)

The 6th symposium at Allwetterzoo Münster has come to an end on Sunday, 19 October 2025. The event was a real highlight and delighted all participants greatly.

The very special thing at this DCG symposium was the participation of two Czech aquarists. That was one of the biggest highlights!

The DCG (Deutsche Cichliden-Gesellschaft e. V.) and I would like to thank you very much for the visit of Linda Vlachová and Adam Molin at our 6th DCG Symposium.
It pleased the DCG board, all participants and also me very much to obtain a contact with Czech aquaristics and to be able to speak directly personally with two representatives from the Czech Republic and exchange ideas.
There were three days of really lively exchange on interesting topics. Linda and I have already developed some ideas and plans for future joint activities and projects.

A very big thank you and a big compliment to Linda for her two lectures at the DCG Symposium, about “ForAquarist.com” and Czech aquaristics.
That impressed all participants very much and also excited them.

Also many thanks to Adam, who undertook a long journey to be at the DCG Symposium.

Linda and we are of the opinion that we want to promote a further, more intensive exchange and will do so.

Of course, all Czech aquarists are still warmly invited to our DCG events and online lectures.
All online lectures are readable with real-time translated Czech subtitles.

Further such events in the Czech Republic and Germany would be real “aquaristic lighthouses” that are currently quite unique; we are already looking forward to it.

Best regards to Linda, Adam and all other Czech aquarists.

from
the entire DCG board
the Cichliden-Forum.de

and a very big thank you from Manfred (DCG PR and the Cichliden-Forum.de)

Spolek AQUARIO & spol. n.o. pořádá akci zaměřenou na moderní akvaristiku s cílem pozvednout současnou úroveň chovu a nastolit vyšší etické a kvalitativní standardy. Organizace klade důraz na přirozené podmínky a ochranu chovatelů před negativními vlivy překupníků.

Key Information about Exhibitions
Výstava striktně dodržuje mezinárodní kritéria pro pohodu ryb a kvalitu chovů:

Nádrže a objemy: Soutěžní nádrže splní mezinárodní kritéria IGHC. Výstavní objemy se řídí normou CITES (1 cm ryby na 1 l vody), a prodejní nádrže budou velké (cca 100 l), ne malé kóje.

Péče o ryby: Nádrže budou tepelně regulovány. Vody nebudou chemicky upravovány; chemie se použije jen izolovaně a po dohodě s chovatelem.

Kondice ryb: Vystavovány budou pouze chovné, dospělé ryby v kondici.

Kontrola: Všechny expozice projdou veterinární kontrolou s protokolem.

Garance: Všechny vystavené ryby budou na požádání vráceny majiteli.

Výzva k Účasti a Možnosti pro Chovatele:
AQUARIO vyzývá všechny akvaristy – profesionály i amatéry – k účasti. Akce slouží k porovnání chovů, získání vlastní reference a vzájemné podpoře v oboru. Účast je vnímána jako pomoc při pozvedání celkové úrovně akvaristiky v ČR.

Účastníci soutěžní sekce získají pamětní diplom.

V rámci výstavy je možná vzájemná výměna chovných variací a prodej ryb.

Účastí podpoříte snahu o návrat ke kvalitním chovným standardům a přispějete k rozvoji oborových vztahů.

Public aquarium in Česká Lípa, also known as Fish Zoo, offers a unique combination of education, relaxation, and visual experience with tropical fish and aquatic ecosystems. It is a great place for individual, family, or school visits.

What you can see:

- over 80 species of tropical fish from various parts of the world live in the aquariums, newly you will see species such as Hartweg's cichlid (Vieja hartwegi) or stone acara, wide-headed acara,

- the total volume of the aquariums exceeds 8,000 liters of water

- the aquariums are arranged to closely mimic natural habitats, especially of African and South American waters

- tours can be guided, which helps to better understand the biology, ecology, and technical aspects of the aquarium's operation

- barrier-free access is ensured, allowing entry for people with mobility limitations or parents with strollers

If you decide to visit the aquarium, you will certainly appreciate the personal approach and engaging storytelling about each aquarium and its inhabitants from the enthusiastic aquarist and exhibition operator Mr. Jasanský, which will enrich the very interesting experience of observing many species of attractive fish.

For children from Česká Lípa, it is also newly possible to attend the aquarist club "Aquarist in Harmony with Nature".

The public aquarium in Česká Lípa is not immune to economic pressures. In recent years, it has faced a significant increase in costs (e.g., energy, maintenance of technology) and therefore had to announce a public collection to support its operation. That is why it would be great if you decide to support the Public Aquarium, whether by visiting or making a financial contribution, which will allow this unique project to continue in the coming years.

Address of the Public Aquarium: Prokopa Holého 1287/2 in Česká Lípa (link to the map - https://mapy.com/s/pobehaheku).

Contact information:

Phone: +420 603 204 386
E-mail: akvarium.jasansky@seznam.cz
Web: www.verejneakvarium.cz

Source of photos: verejneakvarium.cz

Let yourself be tempted by a great aquarium exhibition in Rychnov n. Kněžnou organized by the Akva-tera association, now for the 46th time.

You will see newly reconstructed spaces and a slightly different take on the exhibition. It is definitely worth it. To start, we attach a few photos as a teaser.

More information can also be found here (https://www.foraquarist.com/novinky/311-akvarijni-vystava-akvaexpo-13-az-21-zari-2025-v-rychnove-nad-kneznou).

I had a moment to stop by the International Killifish Exhibition at the Botanical Garden in Prague, which starts today. Although some aquariums are still empty, many beautiful killifish can already be seen (for example, in the photos, Fundulopanchax sjostedti - Blue Killifish in the "Red Dwarf" variant and Aplocheilus lineatus - Golden Striped Killifish). In addition to the exhibition, other aquarium fish can also be seen in several permanent aquariums (also in the photos), which are very well done.

Entry to the exhibition is practically free; you only pay for entry to the Botanical Garden, which is 100 CZK. The killifish exhibition is definitely worth a visit! 😎

Exhibition Annotation:
The International Killifish Exhibition takes place in Prague from September 11 to 14, 2025, at the Botanical Garden of Charles University at Na Slupi 16. The exhibition will showcase beautifully colored aquarium fish with unique life cycles and behaviors, including demonstrations of some species that can adapt to life on land. On Sunday, September 14, a traditional market will take place, where visitors can purchase fish and try their breeding.

More information is also available here: https://www.foraquarist.com/novinky/358-halancici-dobyvaji-prahu-mezinarodni-vystava-a-burza-od-11-do-14-zari-2025

A new addition to the breeding of halfbeaks. During my visit to the Papík company in Dříteč, I brought home two new halfbeaks.

Hello,

here are some pictures and inspirations from my Malawi Lake aquarium, where I keep Malawi predators and non-Mbunas.

Here you can see:
Exochochromis anagenys, Aristiochromis Chrisityi, Copadichromis borleyi Kadango, Mylochromis mchuse, Mylochromis epichorialis,
Nimbochromis fuscotaeniatus, Placidochromis phenochilus Mdoka "White Lips", Protomelas taeniolatus Boadzulu, Stigmatochromis tolae

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Best regards, Manfred

Hello,

the DCG e.V. has adjusted its website so that "Czech" is now selectable as a site language.
Thus, the extensive information should also be well usable for Czech aquarists who do not speak many foreign languages.

To reach: www.dcg-online.de

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me or Linda.

Best regards, Manfred

Hello to all aquarists,

my first attempt to write an article here.

I put the spiny eel in my Malawi tank because the Malawi predators don't really expend much energy hunting the fry. They always get something from me, so there's no need to overexert themselves. 😉

My C. borleyi Kadango regularly produces about 50-90 fry! Very few of them don't make it! Almost all fry survive with the Kadangos. This means the tank gets overcrowded in a short time! Unfortunately, giving them away in such quantities doesn't work either. 🤔

This species of spiny eel from Lake Tanganyika is truly fascinating, very intelligent, and exhibits very independent behavior in the tank.
The number one aspect of its behavior is that it is an effective and intense hunter; nothing escapes it! Mine is now about 50 cm long after years!

Caution: The fish population must be at least >10 cm; otherwise, it will end up in the stomach of Mastacembelus moorii sooner or later!!

I can also report the following: for example, it eats from my hand, reacts almost immediately to my hand signals, etc.

Brief species description:
Genus: Mastacembelus
Species: moorii
Trade name: Tanganyika Spiny Eel
Continent, Lake: East Africa, Lake Tanganyika (endemic)
Tank size: min. 200, better 250 - 400 cm length, depth 60-80 cm
Water temperature: 22 - 26 °C
pH value: 7.5 - 9.0
max. size: 45-50 cm possibly even more
Food: Frozen food, live food (mussel meat, krill, crab pieces, (if smelt, then feed rarely))
They do not take flakes, granules, or similar!
Hunting behavior: They hunt and eat anything that barely fits in their mouth or can be overwhelmed.
Care: Sociable with large cichlids, nocturnal
Tank design: Make the tank safe for eels! The animals will "climb" out of the tank whenever possible. They are very curious!

For questions, I am happy to help.

Best regards, Manfred

30-liter nano cube aquarium that I have for relaxation in the photo studio :)

Daphnia magna, also known as the large water flea, are small aquatic crustaceans that are ideal livefood for fish. Their cultivation is relatively simple and economical. To successfully raise daphnia after acquiring this great livefood, I have prepared a detailed guide for you.

1. Establishing the culture
a) Tank
Size: For starters, a 10-20 liter tank (aquarium or plastic box) is sufficient. For larger production, you can also use larger containers (50-100 liters).

Material: Glass or food-grade plastic are ideal. Avoid metal containers that may release toxic substances.

Location: Place the tank in a spot with diffused light, not in direct sunlight. A stable temperature is ideal.

b) Water
Type: The best is standing tap water (let it sit for at least 24 hours, ideally longer, to allow the chlorine to evaporate). You can also use rainwater or water from an already established, healthy aquarium.

Temperature: The optimal temperature for breeding is between 18-25 °C. At higher temperatures, daphnia reproduce faster, but have a shorter lifespan.

Hardness: Daphnia prefer moderately hard to hard water. However, they can also thrive in water with a lower pH, around 6.

c) Starter culture
Purchase the starter culture from a reliable supplier, ideally here on ForAquarist from verified breeders. Keep in mind that daphnia are very sensitive to changes in their environment, so they may take some time to acclimate to the new conditions.

2. Feeding
Feeding is the most important factor for successful daphnia cultivation. They are filter-feeding organisms that feed on microscopic algae and bacteria.

Feeding options
a) Green water: This is the best and most natural food. You can prepare green water by leaving water with a little organic matter (e.g., dried nettle leaves) in the sun until it becomes cloudy with green algae.

b) Brewer's yeast: Dissolve a small amount of dried brewer's yeast in water and add it to the tank. Yeast is rich in proteins and vitamins. Dose very carefully to avoid overfeeding and spoiling the water.

c) Yeast: Dissolve a small amount of yeast in warm water and let it stand for at least an hour. Then feed so that the water is slightly "milky." Once the daphnia clear the water, you can add more.

d) Spirulina or chlorella powder: Very nutritious and readily available food. Again, dose very small amounts.

e) Egg yolk: A tiny amount of boiled egg yolk mashed in water can serve as emergency food. However, you must be very careful, as it is very easy to overfeed.

Dosing
Feed small amounts; if you are starting out, it is better to feed twice a day than to add too much food. The water should be slightly cloudy after feeding, but it should clear up within a few hours. If the water remains cloudy for a long time (from my experience - more than a day and a half), you are overfeeding. Overfeeding is a common cause of culture collapse.

Watch how the daphnia move. If they are actively filtering (moving their limbs quickly), they have enough food.

3. Maintenance of the culture
a) Water change
Regularly (e.g., once a week) siphon off sediment and sludge from the bottom of the tank. It is recommended to replace 10-20% of the water volume with fresh, standing water.

Never change all the water at once.

b) Aeration
Daphnia do not need water flow, but gentle aeration helps maintain optimal oxygen levels and prevents the accumulation of organic matter. A weak air stone is sufficient. You can also conduct the culture without aeration, but you must be more careful about the placement of the tank and the number of daphnia.

c) Monitoring the population
Regularly check the daphnia population. If you see many dead individuals, the population is decreasing, or there are few small daphnia, you need to check the water quality and feeding.

Under optimal conditions, daphnia reproduce quickly, and small individuals are visible.

4. Collecting daphnia
Daphnia are best collected with a fine net.

You can catch them directly from the tank and immediately feed them to the fish, or you can keep them in a separate container with fresh water for later use.

5. Common problems and solutions
Cloudy water and odor: Overfeeding. Immediately reduce feeding amounts and change part of the water.

Population collapse: This can be caused by sudden changes in temperature, pH, toxic substances in the water (chlorine, heavy metals), or lack of food. Check all parameters and ensure the water is fine.

Cultivating Daphnia magna will bring joy to any aquarist who wants to offer their fish a natural and nutritious food source. With a little patience and adherence to these guidelines, you will soon enjoy a plentiful supply of these tiny crustaceans.

Successful breeding!

What do you think of my two loves

Izya worms also known as Israel Tubifex are an excellent live food that you can relatively easily breed at home. You can obtain starter cultures for your own breeding, for example, from Mr. Dorňák, a specialist in live aquarium feed.

🏞️ Origin and Natural Habitat of Betta Fish

The Betta fish originates from Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos, where it inhabits slow-moving or stagnant waters, such as rice paddies and shallow ponds. Thanks to a special labyrinth organ, it can breathe atmospheric oxygen, allowing it to survive in environments with low oxygen levels.

🏠 Suitable Aquarium

- Volume: At least 20–30 liters for one male.

- Shape: A rectangular or square aquarium is more suitable than the often-used round containers, which can stress the fish.

- Cover: It is recommended to cover the aquarium to prevent the fish from jumping out and to maintain a stable air temperature above the water surface.

- Filtration: Mild filtration is appropriate; a strong water current could stress the Betta.

- Heater: Maintain the water temperature between 24–28 °C.

- Lighting: Moderate lighting will enhance the fish's colors and help reduce their shyness.

🌿 Aquarium Equipment for Bettas

- Substrate: Fine sand or gravel.

- Plants: A densely planted aquarium with live plants will provide hiding spots and improve water quality.

- Hiding spots: Roots, stones, and other shelters are welcome; avoid sharp objects that could damage the Betta's fins.

🧼 Aquarium Maintenance

- Water change: Regularly change 25–30% of the water weekly.

- Cleaning: Remove algae and debris from the glass and decorations.

🍽️ Suitable Feeding for Betta Fish

The Betta is a carnivore. Suitable food includes:

- Pellets and flakes: Specifically designed for Bettas, with a high content of animal protein.

- Frozen or live food: Such as mosquito larvae, daphnia, or brine shrimp.

Feeding frequency: Feed 1–2 times a day in small amounts; remove excess food to prevent water pollution.

👥 Behavior and Co-habitation of Bettas

- Males: Highly territorial; never keep two males in one aquarium.

- Females: Less aggressive; can be kept in a harem (1 male to 2–3 females) in a larger and densely planted aquarium.

- Community aquarium: Betta fish can be kept with non-aggressive species of fish, such as rasboras, neon tetras, or corydoras. Avoid fish with long fins or aggressive species that could stress the Betta or nip at its fins.

🐣 Breeding Betta Fish

The male builds a bubble nest at the water's surface. After spawning, the male transfers the fertilized eggs to the nest and cares for them until the fry hatch. After hatching, it is advisable to separate the young males to prevent cannibalism.

🐡Corydoras are very popular aquarium fish, so it's worth taking a closer look at their characteristics; some information might be new to you.

1. They live in groups – and suffer when alone

Corydoras are typically shoaling fish that need the company of their own kind. In a group of at least six, but preferably more individuals, they are more active, less stressed, and exhibit their natural behavior.

2. They breathe not only through gills but also through their intestines!

In addition to gills, Corydoras can absorb oxygen through their intestinal epithelium. You will often see them quickly surfacing to gulp air – this compensates for the low oxygen content in the water.

3. They are covered in "armor"

The bodies of Corydoras are not covered in regular scales but rather by two rows of bony plates (known as "armor") on the sides. These provide protection against predators and mechanical injuries.

4. Quiet but very curious fish

Although they are calm and peaceful, Corydoras are very curious and active, especially when foraging on the bottom. They have an excellent sense of smell and sensitive whiskers that help them search for food.

5. The genus of Corydoras has more than 170 species

The genus Corydoras is one of the largest genera of freshwater fish. It includes over 170 scientifically described species and dozens of other forms, color varieties, and local forms. For example:

Corydoras paleatus (spotted corydoras)

Corydoras aeneus (bronze corydoras)

Corydoras panda (panda corydoras)

Corydoras sterbai (Sterba's corydoras)

6. The female collects eggs in pockets made from her own fins

During spawning, the male fertilizes the eggs, which the female then carries and sticks to surfaces like glass, plant leaves, or decorations using her abdominal fins.

7. They are not "cleaners" – they need their own food

Although they collect leftover food from the bottom, they are not a cleanup crew. They require quality food, ideally sinking pellets, live or frozen food (such as bloodworms, daphnia, mosquito larvae).

8. They inhabit South America – even extreme conditions

Corydoras primarily come from the Amazon basin, but they also inhabit small streams, seasonal pools, and flood areas. Some species can survive in murky or oxygen-poor water.

9. They are ideal for community aquariums

Due to their gentle nature, they are well-suited to tetra fish, livebearers, gouramis, and small cichlids. It is important that the bottom of the aquarium is not sharp – fine sand is best.

10. They can live up to 10 years

With good care, Corydoras can live 8 to 10 years, and in rare cases even longer. A suitable group, stable conditions, and quality nutrition will ensure them a long and happy life.