Daphnia magna, also known as the large water flea, are small aquatic crustaceans that are ideal livefood for fish. Their cultivation is relatively simple and economical. To successfully raise daphnia after acquiring this great livefood, I have prepared a detailed guide for you.
1. Establishing the culture
a) Tank
Size: For starters, a 10-20 liter tank (aquarium or plastic box) is sufficient. For larger production, you can also use larger containers (50-100 liters).
Material: Glass or food-grade plastic are ideal. Avoid metal containers that may release toxic substances.
Location: Place the tank in a spot with diffused light, not in direct sunlight. A stable temperature is ideal.
b) Water
Type: The best is standing tap water (let it sit for at least 24 hours, ideally longer, to allow the chlorine to evaporate). You can also use rainwater or water from an already established, healthy aquarium.
Temperature: The optimal temperature for breeding is between 18-25 °C. At higher temperatures, daphnia reproduce faster, but have a shorter lifespan.
Hardness: Daphnia prefer moderately hard to hard water. However, they can also thrive in water with a lower pH, around 6.
c) Starter culture
Purchase the starter culture from a reliable supplier, ideally here on ForAquarist from verified breeders. Keep in mind that daphnia are very sensitive to changes in their environment, so they may take some time to acclimate to the new conditions.
2. Feeding
Feeding is the most important factor for successful daphnia cultivation. They are filter-feeding organisms that feed on microscopic algae and bacteria.
Feeding options
a) Green water: This is the best and most natural food. You can prepare green water by leaving water with a little organic matter (e.g., dried nettle leaves) in the sun until it becomes cloudy with green algae.
b) Brewer's yeast: Dissolve a small amount of dried brewer's yeast in water and add it to the tank. Yeast is rich in proteins and vitamins. Dose very carefully to avoid overfeeding and spoiling the water.
c) Yeast: Dissolve a small amount of yeast in warm water and let it stand for at least an hour. Then feed so that the water is slightly "milky." Once the daphnia clear the water, you can add more.
d) Spirulina or chlorella powder: Very nutritious and readily available food. Again, dose very small amounts.
e) Egg yolk: A tiny amount of boiled egg yolk mashed in water can serve as emergency food. However, you must be very careful, as it is very easy to overfeed.
Dosing
Feed small amounts; if you are starting out, it is better to feed twice a day than to add too much food. The water should be slightly cloudy after feeding, but it should clear up within a few hours. If the water remains cloudy for a long time (from my experience - more than a day and a half), you are overfeeding. Overfeeding is a common cause of culture collapse.
Watch how the daphnia move. If they are actively filtering (moving their limbs quickly), they have enough food.
3. Maintenance of the culture
a) Water change
Regularly (e.g., once a week) siphon off sediment and sludge from the bottom of the tank. It is recommended to replace 10-20% of the water volume with fresh, standing water.
Never change all the water at once.
b) Aeration
Daphnia do not need water flow, but gentle aeration helps maintain optimal oxygen levels and prevents the accumulation of organic matter. A weak air stone is sufficient. You can also conduct the culture without aeration, but you must be more careful about the placement of the tank and the number of daphnia.
c) Monitoring the population
Regularly check the daphnia population. If you see many dead individuals, the population is decreasing, or there are few small daphnia, you need to check the water quality and feeding.
Under optimal conditions, daphnia reproduce quickly, and small individuals are visible.
4. Collecting daphnia
Daphnia are best collected with a fine net.
You can catch them directly from the tank and immediately feed them to the fish, or you can keep them in a separate container with fresh water for later use.
5. Common problems and solutions
Cloudy water and odor: Overfeeding. Immediately reduce feeding amounts and change part of the water.
Population collapse: This can be caused by sudden changes in temperature, pH, toxic substances in the water (chlorine, heavy metals), or lack of food. Check all parameters and ensure the water is fine.
Cultivating Daphnia magna will bring joy to any aquarist who wants to offer their fish a natural and nutritious food source. With a little patience and adherence to these guidelines, you will soon enjoy a plentiful supply of these tiny crustaceans.
Successful breeding!
Izya worms also known as Israel Tubifex are an excellent live food that you can relatively easily breed at home. You can obtain starter cultures for your own breeding, for example, from Mr. Dorňák, a specialist in live aquarium feed.
🏞️ Origin and Natural Habitat of Betta Fish
The Betta fish originates from Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos, where it inhabits slow-moving or stagnant waters, such as rice paddies and shallow ponds. Thanks to a special labyrinth organ, it can breathe atmospheric oxygen, allowing it to survive in environments with low oxygen levels.
🏠 Suitable Aquarium
- Volume: At least 20–30 liters for one male.
- Shape: A rectangular or square aquarium is more suitable than the often-used round containers, which can stress the fish.
- Cover: It is recommended to cover the aquarium to prevent the fish from jumping out and to maintain a stable air temperature above the water surface.
- Filtration: Mild filtration is appropriate; a strong water current could stress the Betta.
- Heater: Maintain the water temperature between 24–28 °C.
- Lighting: Moderate lighting will enhance the fish's colors and help reduce their shyness.
🌿 Aquarium Equipment for Bettas
- Substrate: Fine sand or gravel.
- Plants: A densely planted aquarium with live plants will provide hiding spots and improve water quality.
- Hiding spots: Roots, stones, and other shelters are welcome; avoid sharp objects that could damage the Betta's fins.
🧼 Aquarium Maintenance
- Water change: Regularly change 25–30% of the water weekly.
- Cleaning: Remove algae and debris from the glass and decorations.
🍽️ Suitable Feeding for Betta Fish
The Betta is a carnivore. Suitable food includes:
- Pellets and flakes: Specifically designed for Bettas, with a high content of animal protein.
- Frozen or live food: Such as mosquito larvae, daphnia, or brine shrimp.
Feeding frequency: Feed 1–2 times a day in small amounts; remove excess food to prevent water pollution.
👥 Behavior and Co-habitation of Bettas
- Males: Highly territorial; never keep two males in one aquarium.
- Females: Less aggressive; can be kept in a harem (1 male to 2–3 females) in a larger and densely planted aquarium.
- Community aquarium: Betta fish can be kept with non-aggressive species of fish, such as rasboras, neon tetras, or corydoras. Avoid fish with long fins or aggressive species that could stress the Betta or nip at its fins.
🐣 Breeding Betta Fish
The male builds a bubble nest at the water's surface. After spawning, the male transfers the fertilized eggs to the nest and cares for them until the fry hatch. After hatching, it is advisable to separate the young males to prevent cannibalism.
🐡Corydoras are very popular aquarium fish, so it's worth taking a closer look at their characteristics; some information might be new to you.
1. They live in groups – and suffer when alone
Corydoras are typically shoaling fish that need the company of their own kind. In a group of at least six, but preferably more individuals, they are more active, less stressed, and exhibit their natural behavior.
2. They breathe not only through gills but also through their intestines!
In addition to gills, Corydoras can absorb oxygen through their intestinal epithelium. You will often see them quickly surfacing to gulp air – this compensates for the low oxygen content in the water.
3. They are covered in "armor"
The bodies of Corydoras are not covered in regular scales but rather by two rows of bony plates (known as "armor") on the sides. These provide protection against predators and mechanical injuries.
4. Quiet but very curious fish
Although they are calm and peaceful, Corydoras are very curious and active, especially when foraging on the bottom. They have an excellent sense of smell and sensitive whiskers that help them search for food.
5. The genus of Corydoras has more than 170 species
The genus Corydoras is one of the largest genera of freshwater fish. It includes over 170 scientifically described species and dozens of other forms, color varieties, and local forms. For example:
Corydoras paleatus (spotted corydoras)
Corydoras aeneus (bronze corydoras)
Corydoras panda (panda corydoras)
Corydoras sterbai (Sterba's corydoras)
6. The female collects eggs in pockets made from her own fins
During spawning, the male fertilizes the eggs, which the female then carries and sticks to surfaces like glass, plant leaves, or decorations using her abdominal fins.
7. They are not "cleaners" – they need their own food
Although they collect leftover food from the bottom, they are not a cleanup crew. They require quality food, ideally sinking pellets, live or frozen food (such as bloodworms, daphnia, mosquito larvae).
8. They inhabit South America – even extreme conditions
Corydoras primarily come from the Amazon basin, but they also inhabit small streams, seasonal pools, and flood areas. Some species can survive in murky or oxygen-poor water.
9. They are ideal for community aquariums
Due to their gentle nature, they are well-suited to tetra fish, livebearers, gouramis, and small cichlids. It is important that the bottom of the aquarium is not sharp – fine sand is best.
10. They can live up to 10 years
With good care, Corydoras can live 8 to 10 years, and in rare cases even longer. A suitable group, stable conditions, and quality nutrition will ensure them a long and happy life.
Aulophorus furcatus (also known as Auloforus, Dero worm, Microflex, Microworms) is a small worm from the order Oligochaeta, related to nematodes, which is used in aquaristics as live food. It is ideal for feeding fry, smaller species of fish, and some invertebrates due to its fine size and movement that triggers the natural hunting instinct in fish.
🧬 Characteristics
Size: approx. 1–2 mm in diameter, length up to several centimeters (usually 1–3 cm)
Color: translucent white to pinkish
Movement: swims or undulates in the water column, sometimes forming colonies on the substrate surface
Habitat: freshwater, often found in biofilm and on sediments
🎣 Use of Dero worms in aquaristics
Auloforus is suitable:
- as excellent food for freshly swimming fry (e.g., livebearers, labyrinth fish, tetra fish), fish fry, as well as juvenile and adult fish
- also for small fish (e.g., rasboras, borneo suckers, pseudomugils)
- for demanding species of fish during recovery or breeding periods
The natural movement of Auloforus stimulates fish to hunt and aids in their healthy development and growth. Another advantage is that there is zero risk of introducing any diseases to aquarium fish when breeding at home, as Dero worm reproduces by division.
🧰 Breeding and Harvesting
- cultivation is similar to that of micro-worms: moist substrate (sponge, preferably bio-sponge, filter wool), water with a high organic content.
- can also be bred in a closed plastic container submerged underwater
- fed with finely ground oatmeal or blended flakes
- harvested by scraping worms from the surface or through a fine sieve.
- Auloforus colonies have an enormous reproductive capacity
- in overstocked or poorly maintained tanks, Auloforus can overpopulate and signal an excess of nutrients in the aquarium. On the other hand, overpopulation does not necessarily cause any harm.
Auloforus is an excellent supplementary live food for aquaristics, appreciated by both beginners and advanced breeders when raising more sensitive species of fish. It is easily available, simple to breed, and due to its delicacy and movement, it is ideal even for the smallest fish.
